| | | | Pros and Cons of 10% Ethanol in Gas
If not already, you will
soon be using 10% Ethanol as a replacement oxygenation additive for the
discontinued MTBE (methyl tertiary-butyl ether) in gasoline. With this
change comes a multitude of questions and misinformation within the boating
community that needs to be addressed. The fact is that there will be many
more problems with boats’ fuel tanks than there will be with automobiles’
and the reason for this is the requirement for marine fuel tanks to be
“vented.” This allows the Ethanol to absorb moisture from
the humidity entering through the vent, thereby adding additional condensation
to the fuel. Following are some of the known facts about Ethanol when
mixed into gasoline at the present designated ratio of 10% by volume (E-10).
- Ethanol
attracts more water than plain gasoline.
- Ethanol
contains only about 2/3 as much energy as plain gas, therefore getting
poorer mileage (approx. 3%) for the same volume of gasoline.
- It only
takes about 3/10 of 1 percent of water (.3%) to begin separating the
water and 75+% of the Ethanol from the fuel, which then drops to the
bottom of the tank with the water. There it forms what is known as a
“single phase separation” layer of water and Ethanol under
the gasoline. This small amount of water equates to slightly under 4
oz of water per 10 gals of gasoline.
- When the
water/Ethanol layer at the bottom of the tank rises to the level of
the fuel pickup, it will be sucked up into the engine, shutting the
engine down. The water/Ethanol layer WILL NOT support combustion.
- MDR’s
Water Probe Indicator (MDR-566) can determine if water is present at
the bottom of a fuel tank, and in fact, how much water is there as long
as the tank can be dipped straight down. If necessary, removing the
fuel sender provides a typical access for this test.
- Ethanol
(E-10) adds about 2 points of octane to the gasoline when totally in
solution, but then loses that octane when the Ethanol drops to the bottom
of the tank with water.
- E-10 evaporates
more quickly than plain gasoline, thereby losing some of the added octane
in the process.
- E-10 will
deteriorate fiberglass fuel tanks (pre-1985), allowing the residue to
eventually clog up fuel systems and intake valves enough to seriously
damage engines.
- Tests
have shown that MDR’s NEWEST PRODUCT, E-ZORB (MDR-574), will totally
emulsify the phased separation of water and Ethanol at the bottom of
a fuel tank right back into the fuel, allowing it to pass through the
finest filters and safely burn through with the fuel. At the same time,
the octane lost when the Ethanol went to the bottom of the tank with
the water will also be replaced back into the fuel.
- E-ZORB,
LIKE ALL MDR FUEL ADDITIVES, CONTAINS NO ALCOHOL OR METHANOL.
A
simple field test will prove how well E-Zorb works to remove standing
water from E-10 gas. Components needed:
• A clean, clear quart-size glass jar with cap
• E-10 gasoline (10 oz minimum)
• Water
• E-Zorb
-
Add approximately 10 oz of E-10 gasoline to the glass jar (not
quite 1/3 full)
- Add
two (2) capfuls of water to the jar using the E-Zorb cap. This
should immediately drop to the bottom (see Fig. 1).
- Add
two (2) capfuls of E-Zorb to the jar and shake or stir. The fuel
should become cloudy and the water/ethanol solution on the bottom
should turn white. (See Fig. 2.) The cloudy fuel indicates the
E-Zorb is working but
needs more to complete the emulsification process.
- Adding
another ½-capful of E-Zorb and stirring should clear the
fuel without any water/ethanol remaining on the bottom (Fig. 3).
Should
the fuel stay cloudy, an additional ½-capful of E-Zorb is
necessary to complete the emulsification. The amount of E-Zorb needed
changes slightly due to the different amounts of ethanol in the
fuel as the E-Zorb must emulsify the total phase separated solution
of water and ethanol on the bottom. Once clear, the fuel is as good
as new and can be used accordingly. |
Figure 3 |
Winterizing
and Prolonged Storage of E-10 Gasoline
Any vented
fuel tank containing E-10 gas that stands for longer than 30-45 days should
be treated with the following winterizing procedures to maintain the integrity
of the fuel.
- Try to
determine if there is any standing water/ethanol on the bottom of the
tank. Check fuel filters, water/ separators, or use MDR’s Water
Probe Indicator (MDR-566) if the tank can be dipped straight down.
- If no water
is indicated, E-Zorb should be added at the suggested ratio of 1 oz
to 20 gallons of E-10 gas to compensate for condensation during storage.
If an excessive amount of water is indicated it should be safely pumped
out and discarded according to local hazardous waste disposal methods.
Then add an equal
amount of E-Zorb to the remaining phased out water/ethanol on the bottom
and agitate fuel (per “3” below). When the fuel clears all
remaining water/ethanol has been emulsified back into the fuel (Fig.
3 above). Clear fuel can be determined by checking a fuel sample from
the fuel filter or water separator after running the
engine for a short time.
- Now add
MDR’s Gas Stor-N-Start to the tank at a ratio of 1 oz to 5 gallons
of gas with enough Stor-N-Start to treat the tank when totally full.
Immediately thereafter fill the tank with fresh E-10 gasoline, which
should be enough to agitate the E-Zorb and Stor-N-Start, dispersing
them throughout the tank. However, if the tank is already full or only
needs a small amount of new E-10 gas, insert an air hose to the bottom
of the tank allowing the air pressure to bubble the gas for 5-10 minutes.
This should be sufficient to complete the agitation process. Then, after
running the engine for 5-10 minutes to circulate the treated fuel throughout
the
fuel system and lastly fogging the engine, the entire system is winterized
and ready for Spring.
|
|